First, lets talk about what a good photograph might be (and the above image may or may not be a good example!).
Here are some ideas to ponder:
- It is well-composed, well-exposed, color balanced and sharp (unless, of course, a special effect is called for).
- It captures unusual light, form, color, texture, interaction or juxtaposition.
- It captures an unrepeatable moment of light or interaction.
- It causes the viewer to have an “ah-ha!” moment.
- It causes the viewer to react emotionally—to chuckle, to think a bit, to become happy, sad or nostalgic.
- It leads the viewer’s eye to a key point or points.
- It keeps the viewer “in” the image…i.e., the eye is not led out of the photo.
- It is an unusual perspective not seen before.
- It has been technically well “developed” in post-processing (that is, so you can’t tell it was “developed”–unless a special effect is called for.)
For the sharpest images, try these suggestions:
–Use the lowest ISO possible. Usually the best bet is the base ISO for your camera, often 100 or 200.
–Use the fastest shutter speed possible depending upon your purpose.
–With action shots, try a burst mode—one is bound to be sharp, right!?
–Make sure you are focused exactly on what you want to be sharp—use manual focus or Live View with magnification, if necessary.
–Hold your breath (or breathe smoothly…this is debated) and squeeze, or…lean against something or rest the camera on something, or…(see next point)
–Use a good tripod that doesn’t wave in the breeze ($200-$700 and up for the best). See “Tripod Techniques” below.
–Use middle f/stops, say, f/5.6 – f/11 (extreme f/stops, like f/22 and smaller may not help, due to diffraction).
–Use the best lenses (“glass”).
–Use sharpening in post-processing appropriately.
And, finally, some “Tripod Techniques” for the sharpest photographs:
–Use a remote—either cable or IR. Or, use the shutter delay if you have forgotten the remote.
–Set Mirror Lock-Up (or, as in my D90, Exposure Delay Mode)
–Turn off vibration reduction (VR) on the lens. (Also called IS, VC or OS on some lenses.)
–Avoid using the vertical extension tube in the middle of the tripod—it then just becomes a monopod.
–When using the tripod low, use the thicker of the segmented legs…keep the skinny ones retracted.
–Some advocate hanging something heavy from underneath the ball head to make the tripod more solid.
–Standard tripod advice…spend the bucks and get something good. It is hard to find anything of quality for less than $200 for legs and a ballhead together unless you try the used market.
CAVEAT: Now, having said all this, I have to add that there are many modern artists who are pushing the boundaries of creativity in photography with their work. In many such cases, the sharpness of the image is not particularly important. What is important to them in many cases is the mood or the message–so they could give a rat’s toe for all the tripod technique I have outlined above. You can adapt the above advice to whatever might be your personal ends as a photographer. Happy shooting!
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