I can’t believe it has taken me this long to catch a sunset from this area with my camera. I had been up to Tibidabo many times before on the bicycle, and I have even photographed from the platform adjacent to the amusement park at sunrise, but I had never entered the Sagrat Cor Church nor made my way up to the various observation decks within it for a sunset.
So, this day, the first of November, was a revelation of sorts.
Getting there is easy…find your way to the S1 or S2 train (from Plaça de Catalunya, say), take it to the Peu del Funicular stop, catch the fun funicular up the steep slope, then once atop walk a mere 50 feet outside the station to catch mini-bus #111. And all on one Metro ticket!
What to do up there?
Here ya go…with hyperlinks to help you out…
—Tibidabo Amusement Park. This place is a timeless classic. The rides are like something out of the 1950s–but the location, hanging high above Barcelona and the Mediterranean Sea, is absolutely unique. Have your camera set and ready for your 3-minute stay high up on “The Hammer” (see above photo) for a great perspective on the Sacred Heart Church and Barcelona City far below. Also, be sure to ride the famous little red airplane (the spinning prop actually pulls it around!), and the casual and romantic Ferris wheel.
—Temple Expiatori del Sagrat Cor. This is the spectacularly-located, but relatively new (early 20th Century), church directly behind the amusement park…sort of an odd combination of sites, no? For photography, the church is a far better bet than the enclosed tenth floor of the nearby Torre de Collserola. Visit the church sanctuary, of course, but then take the elevator up (3 1/2 Euros from the ticket machine) to the observation deck. There are stairs to take you up to a couple of other decks, the smaller and highest one just below the huge bronze Jesus that crowns the edifice. I probably could have gotten away with a tripod on the more spacious, lower, viewing platforms, but a monopod (or just hand-holding) would be way more considerate given the crowds. Late fall through early spring is best for sunset photos–in summer, the sun sets well after the church closes. The elevator line can get long and Otis is small (12 folks at a time), so show up with plenty o’ time to make sure you are up high and in place for the golden light. If you are looking for the perfect 360-degree seagull’s-eye view of Barcelona, this is mo’ definitely it. Photo hint: a 200 to 300mm lens would not be a bad idea to isolate some of Barcelona’s landmarks as they are somewhat far away.
—Torre de Collserola. The enclosed observation deck is on the tenth floor and is perhaps slightly higher in altitude than the Sacred Heart Church observation decks. The Torre has limited hours and can be closed for storms or for security reasons, so check the schedule before you go. Again, late fall through early spring is your best bet for catching that early sunset. Shooting through the windows may frustrate you, however, if you have any plans for serious undistorted photography.
—L’Observatori Fabra. Constructed in 1904, you’ll see its dome just below the amusement park. See the link for activities and visiting hours.
Now, here are some pictures to give you an idea of what you might expect…
The impressive facade of the Sacred Heart Church with its bronze Christ figure towering above. Jesus was not placed up there until sometime in the 1950s. The highest observation point you can reach, via elevator, then stairs, is at his feet:
The sanctuary was much smaller than I expected given the imposing size of the entire building. Still, it is quite ornate and worth spending some time perusing the details:
Naturally, I spent a lot of time up in the heights of the Church on this beautiful day. The views of Barcelona are second-to-none–unless you hire a private plane or a heely-whopper. You can see “The Hammer” on the right, the red bucket on the way up, with the Fabra Observatory next to the bucket. On the left is the famous little airplane that apparently circles around on its pivot using nothing more than the power of its propeller. That green mound in the distance on the right is Montjuic, venue for the 1992 Summer Olympics and still a very active hotspot for concerts and sports today:
A close-up of the little plane, pensive tourist at the window:
These are the kinds of views you’ll have from Tibidabo and the Church if you bring a telephoto of some sort (this one was shot at 110mm). Here we have the three stacks of the now dormant Central Térmica power plant on the left (future climbing gym!?) and the high apartment buildings of the El Maresme zone on the right. On that taller hill in the center, anti-aircraft batteries were built to defend Barcelona against the fascist bombardments during the Spanish Civil War. Remains of the batteries are still there and it is a poular sunset spot for young lovers, partiers, and tourists (and photographers!):
The vertical section of “The Hammer” (1921, originally) on the left and the Ferris wheel (new in 2014) on the right:
Torre de las Aguas (1902), with Montseny (5,597′ MSL) in the background under low clouds from a dissipating storm:
The sun sets, caressing the clouds with warm light. The bullet-shaped (to be kind!) Torre Glòries, formerly Torre Agbar, is in the center of the scene and the #1 tourist attraction in Barcelona, the Basílica i Temple Expiatori de la Sagrada Familia, is under the cranes on the right:
The apparently precariously balanced and bristling 499-foot Torre de Collserola is just across the abyss from the Sacred Heart Church. Count ten stories up and you can see the enclosed viewing platform. Way off in the distance and to the left, a large ship catches the last of the Sun’s rays:
In this closer view of “The Hammer”, you can see the tourists nervously enjoying their exposed perch with the Fabra Observatory and the entire city of Barcelona laid out below. The sail-shaped building on the coastline is the Hotel Vela, or Barcelona W, and Montjuic is on the right:
A very wide and distorted view of the whole area as the lights of the amusement park are turned on. A church and an amusement park on the same plot o’ land…a nice thought-provoking juxtaposition of elements:
Finally, this old 1950 (think Franco) newsreel documenting Tibidabo will bring back nostalgic memories and maybe a few chuckles if you are an older local. If not, it’s still quite a curiosity….
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