Tripod…Required?
Conventional landscape and nature photographic wisdom says that you need a tripod in order to use your camera effectively at slow shutter speeds. Producing that misty-dreamy-creamy look with water is the classic example.
But is a tripod always required for such work? Maybe, maybe not…
Typically, for that soft, feathery look with water we want shutter speeds in the 1/30 to 2 second range, depending on light available, the speed of the water, how close you are to it, and the effect we are trying to create. (It’s always a good idea to experiment with a range of shutter speeds to see how they work out.)
All of these shutter speeds, though, push the limits of what is possible while hand-holding the camera–even with the miracle of image stabilization, and especially with these newer high-megapixel models. Thus the almost universal recommendation to plant your machine atop a solid tripod and use some sort of remote (or other no-touch technique) to trip the shutter.
Minimum Shutter Speeds – Rules o’ Thumb
For decades, the rule o’ Tom Thumb when shooting handheld (35mm cameras, without image stabilization) was to choose a shutter speed that was at least as fast as the lens focal length being used. For example, with a 50mm lens, you should shoot at a minimum of 1/50th sec (OK, 1/60th)…using a 200mm lens you should shoot at 1/200th sec or faster, and so on.
NOTE: With crop sensor cameras, use 1.6x the focal length. So, use 1/80th sec shutter speed with a 50mm lens as a minimum.
With image stabilization, you can improve on this classic rule by two to four stops, or so it is said. So, with a 50mm lens, instead of 1/60th or 1/80th sec, you might be able to get away with 1/8 or 1/4 sec (that’s a 3 to 4 stop interval).
With the new high mega-pixel cameras–say, 24 MP and larger–you might want to go with a faster than “normal” shutter speed, even with image stabilization. So, with a 50mm lens, consider setting 1/100th sec minimum, for example. (In some circumstances, this may entail adjusting your ISO up to stay with the f-stop you need.)
So, what can you do if you don’t have a tripod and you want to shoot really sloooow?
Here are some ideas:
–If there is a convenient boulder or stump, you can always prop your camera there. If you do this, be sure to disengage image stabilization and then use mirror lock-up with a shutter delay (or remote) to eliminate the need to manually press the shutter release and to eliminate mirror slap (DSLRs) both of which can introduce minor blur.
–If nothing solid is available, engage image stabilization and attempt to brace yourself as best you can–lean against a tree, push out against the camera neck-strap, sit and brace against a knee, fold your arms against the chest, or use a combination of these techniques.
–Try holding your breath just before you gently squeeze the shutter to minimize camera movement.
–Try taking a second shot immediately after the first–you can even set your camera to burst mode to help with this. Sometimes the second (or third, or fourth) image will be sharper than the first.
–Most importantly, make multiple exposures of the same scene. If you take 5, 10, or even 20 shots, one of them is bound to come out nice and sharp (the rocks and trees, that is, your water will be blurred of course).
So, you can indeed make handheld, slow-shutter images of water sans tripod. This is especially true if these images will eventually be reduced in size for use on the web.
For extra-large prints, though, you will likely start to notice slight blur in those areas of the photo that should be sharp. For making BIG enlargements (say, 18 x 12 inches or larger), murals, posters, etc. then, yes, a tripod becomes a necessity (don’t skimp–get the best–you get what you pay for!).
But… The moral o’ today’s story: Just because you don’t happen to have a tripod doesn’t mean you need to give up on slow shutter exposures!
Slow Speeds, Handheld–the Metadata:
The above hand-held image: f/11, 1/5th sec, ISO 100, 24mm with Nikkor 24-120 f/4 lens, Nikon D850.
The below hand-held image: f/11, 1/20th sec, ISO 64, 105mm with Nikkor 24-120 f/4 lens, Nikon D850.
Camp Dick, #27, Colorado, 2018
2 Comments
You can also get the slow water/blurred effect by taking 20-30 images at regular speeds and then merging the images in Photoshop or similar. You can also reduce noise in high ISO situations by taking a similar number of images at the indicated exposure and then blending them- noise being random, you get a much less noisy image.
Rick, I (and any other photographer passersby) appreciate the additional tips! Googling around, it looks like you have worked with Alain Briot, someone with whom I would love to do a workshop one day. Do you have a website or other place where I can see your work? Thanks for visiting! DanJ