14ers: Staying Safe, and Training the Mind and Body for Exposed Class 3 and Class 4 (Part 2)

First Five Flatirons and Moon. Boulder, Colorado, 2015

In this Part 2, I thought I’d cover some of the scrambling opportunities you might find around Boulder, Colorado, in the Flatirons and elsewhere. As training climbs, these can serve as partial “inoculations” against the heebee geebies when scrambling Class 3 and 4 rock up high on a 14er. (If you missed Part 1, CLICK HERE.)

I won’t address some of the harder and more committing routes people often do unroped–the East Faces of the First and Third Flatirons, or the Wind Ridge in Eldo, or even WAY harder, crazy-in-the-head (or Zen?) stuff like Eldo’s Naked Edge. Instead, I’ll keep my focus on truly 4th class routes anyone with adequate motivation and physical conditioning might climb, although the exposure can be titillating in some cases.

Take care with your training as a fall from any of these “scrambles” at the wrong spot can be fatal. Even on easy terrain, a hand or foothold that crumbles and tumbles into the abyss could end your day (or days, plural), so check the rock and your holds. Keep three good points of contact as best you can, start low on the rock and on the easiest terrain, don’t climb up what you can’t climb down, and work your way up to harder and higher as your skills and confidence grow.

For specific approach and route info, consult one of the several excellent rock climbing guidebooks for the region or the Mountain Project website.

Here, I’ll just add my two drachmas (δύο δραχμές) for those who might be interested in rock scrambling as training for the “difficult” (Class 3, 4, and low Class 5) high peaks and traverses–although these local climbs are quite enjoyable and plenty o’ fun in the sun just by themselves.

[NOTE: This post will be constantly “under development” as I gather photos and first-hand information. All images from my iPhone, the 16mp Fuji X100s, or the 20mp Sony RX100iv.]

The Freeway (Second Flatiron), Class 4

–My favorite of them all. It’s a nice, natural line with various options available as you ascend. It could also be a great introduction to roped climbing for the rock rat tyro (or roped simul-climbing), although lead protection is skimpy. There are convenient trees and flakes for belay anchors at least.

–People run up and down this popular route at high rates of speed (see Satan’s Minions Scrambling Club) but, at a reasonable pace, without running like a gazelle, expect maybe 30 minutes up to the base of the climb from the Chautauqua Park parking lot, maybe an hour on the climb, and another 30 minutes down. YMMV.

–At the very base of the Second Flatiron, in the lovely, shaded spot where you start this climb, you have two basic options. If you stay left and climb smoother rock over a small bulge with a crack that is 30-40 feet or so up the slab, you can push things into perhaps the 5.0 to 5.2 range (at the bulge). Also, this left variation feels more exposed to me as you gain height. On the other hand, if you start to the right and go up the obvious groove to the tree, you can keep things definitely less than Class 5 the whole way, it is less exposed, and you can possibly escape off the rock to the right if need be. After 200 feet or so, both of these variations sort of merge toward the left edge of the Freeway slab.

–After the first 200 feet, the rock seems to have a few more broken ledge systems in it and thus feels less exposed (at least to me).

–At one point, about 250 feet up, you may see a short left-leaning and left-facing block slightly right of the natural line. This involves a fun layback move or two, but may be more into the Class 5 range. No worries; it can be avoided.

–Maybe 3/4 of the way on your skyward journey, the slab will end abruptly at the famous six-foot “jump” move. It actually isn’t too hard as the landing area is pretty good–just committing. If you balk at the leap, you can always down climb a slot about ten feet lower and to the left, or down climb the “jump” overhang itself–both workable if semi-awkward options.

–One “pitch” above the “jump” move, you’ll once again top out on a slab with the forest floor and trail visible just below. Hold yer horses, cuz you ain’t done yet, pardner! Continue one more short “pitch” up the next slab, past a small, weathered tree and finger-crackish thing, to the real, and quite obvious, “end o’ the route” at another polished and patient Ponderosa Pine.

–Some images…

A view from just above the parking lot with arrows indicating the starting points of The Freeway and Dodge Block. The exit point is the same for both:

First Five Flatirons and Moon (Labeled). Boulder, Colorado, 2015

Beware that the trail signs can be misleading. If you start up the well-worn and too-wide tourist and wedding photographer path that cuts straight up through the main meadow from the Chautauqua parking area (NOT the semi-paved trail pictured above, BTW, which is probably the better option anyway), here is some guidance…

At your first signed decision point, after you have entered the forest, go left on the Bluebell Trail. Then, almost immediately, you will have another choice to make at a second sign–here, leave the Bluebell-Baird Trail and go uphill toward the 2nd and 3rd Flatiron Loop.

A few hundred yards later, you get to the misleading sign. Instead of taking a right and going toward the “First and Second Flatiron Climbing Access” (which would seem logical), go LEFT toward the “Third Flatiron Climbing Access” (and Royal Arch Trail). This trail will eventually take you right to the base of The Freeway. The offending sign:

Misleading Trail Sign. Flatirons, Boulder, Colorado, 2016

The two main options at the start of the Freeway. The summit block of the Second Flatiron is also known as the “Pullman Car” due to its rectangular shape. The Freeway doesn’t take you up the summit block, although it does give you some good views of it:

Freeway Start. Second Flatiron, Boulder, Colorado, 2015

The layback block option:

(Photo coming one o’ these days when I get around to it.)

The main middle section of The Freeway. The climber high up is nearing the “Leap o’ Faith”:

The Freeway, Middle Section. Second Flatiron, Boulder, Colorado, 2016

Here is a photograph taken from the Dodge Block route which is on the slab just to the west of The Freeway. Note the climber in red. He is on The Freeway in about the same spot as the climber in the previous image:

Climber High on The Freeway. The Second Flatiron, Boulder, Colorado, 2016

Trent prepares for the famous “Leap o’ Faith” move. In addition to the dangle and drop option indicated, you can also dangle and drop from the jump-off point itself…

The Leap o’ Faith, #1. Second Flatiron, Boulder, Colorado, 2016

Trent nails it!

Leap o’ Faith, #2. Second Flatiron, Boulder, Colorado, 2016

Dodge Block (Second Flatiron), Class 4

–Not quite as continuous a line as The Freeway, but still not bad with a number of options available along the way. You’ll get a good view of the routes that ascend the Second Flatiron’s Summit Block (The Pullman Car):

–A short groove on the second “pitch” is there if you wish to push yourself into lower Class 5 moves.

–The coolest part of the route is the “dodge” section–it looks improbable from a distance, but is actually pretty easy and not terribly exposed.

–Some images…

The first “pitch” of Dodge Block. Stay on the left arête to keep it easy–steeper and smoother Class 5 rock tempts to the right. Note the short headwall that must be surmounted farther up–don’t worry, the holds are big and there are several ways to climb it:

Dodge Block, First Pitch. Second Flatiron, Boulder, Colorado, 2015

From the top of the first slab, looking up at what you might term the second “pitch” of Dodge Block. Here you have three variations. Option 1 isn’t bad and avoids being in the “groove” where it is hardest. Option 2 is probably low Class 5. Option 3 is the most popular and somewhat exposed, but with good holds for the most part. With this last option, staying left as you get higher will ease the exposure and difficulty:

Dodge Block, Pitch 2 and Above. Second Flatiron, Boulder, Colorado, 2015

Here is a look up “The Groove” option (a bit wet in this case) during an excursion up to and through the Dodge Block Tunnel Route (5.6):

Dodge Block, Tunnel Variation, 2nd “Pitch”. Photo by Steve Strong

A view up toward the “dodge”. A 5.6 option, which tunnels through a small arch, is also visible (a unique journey worth bringing a rope up here some day). You can traverse to the “dodge” either from up high, or from below. The “dodge” itself is easy and fun:

Dodge Block, Upper Section. Second Flatiron, Boulder, Colorado, 2015

South Sneak (Second Flatiron), Class 4

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Yodeling Moves (Hammerhead), Class 4

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Royal Arch, Class 4

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El Camino Royale (Regency), Class 4

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Fumbledeedum, Class 2 to 5.0

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Gregory Canyon Amphitheater Area

—West Ridge, First Pinnacle, Class 4…low angle slab with big holds at first, then the gap you need to cross to the right of the block will grab your innards with some pretty good exposure down into the amphitheater (beware–it is slightly harder to reverse the moves going back down across the gap). Above the gap, the summit ridge is bulbous and beautiful.

—East Face, T-Zero, 5.1…the obvious 25-foot, somewhat lichen-y crack. The harder moves (5.1?) are low down, so this might make for a nice, short scramble for you.

—North Ridge, T-Zero, Class 4…the short descent route from the top of this tiny crag. One stretchy move with feet getting back down from the top, but the hands are good.

Fern Alley

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