Sunrise. La Plata Peak, Colorado, 2016
The day after a full moon I get titillated and motivated about the possible photo ops from the top of some high point, ideally a 14er. Why? Well, you get the near full moon setting just after the sun comes up. Having the sun and the moon up at the same time avoids the contrast problem (excessive “dynamic range“, ya know) when you try to shoot the too-bright moon when the sky is still inky dark.
…And, you can hike the night above treeline sans headlamp strapped to the ole cranium, which is a truly surreal, magical, and existential experience.
This trip was also a return to a peak I had done in what were basically winter conditions last spring (although not official “calendar” winter). Then, I had wanted to scramble over to “East Plata” as part of my quest for the 74 named 14er summits, but the snow made things way too scary for my then skill set and equipment. [For a trip report on that Spring 2015 climb, go HERE and compare those much more frigid images with those in this near-autumn post.]
At that time, I justified my retreat from the traverse to East Plata by saying I would come back to climb East via Ellingwood Ridge–except, I wasn’t up for such a massive undertaking this particular weekend. And the possible summit sunrise/moonset photo possibilities were just too seducing for me (I won’t carry my heavy camera gear up Ellingwood Ridge ever). So, maybe next year for Ellingwood…and Kelso Ridge…West Ridge of Quandary, Wham Ridge…Iceland…Nepal…summits in the Pyrenees…the Moon…Mars…and a million other things that seem to get added to the unending, ever-growing, big, bad, and bulging, bucket list.
So, this time up La Plata, the positives: I would get to see the summer trail for the first time, possibly make a few nice photographs from the summit at first light through dawn, and also check out the nature of the rough-looking route over and back to that poor, oft-ignored pile o’ rocks known as East Plata.
There turned out to be an additional bonus I hadn’t counted on: the autumn leaf show in the Independence Pass area! Since I was hiking by headlamp and moonlight on the way up–monochrome vision, essentially–I wasn’t able to fully appreciate Pachamama’s Kodachrome production until the light of day. If you are a golden leaf guy or gal, better get out there this coming week–it will surely be “Peak Week to Peek” in these parts! I am thinking it came a bit earlier than normal this year due to our late August cold snap and snow flurries.
Now, for the full trip report, along with my usual merry montage of inspiring images…
Trip Report: La Plata Peak (14,336′) and “East Plata” (14,187′)
Route:
The standard summer Northwest Ridge Route from the trailhead on Colorado 82 (the road over Independence Pass).
All told, then, the climb of both La Plata and East Plata amounted to covering about 9 miles with a total elevation gain (and loss) of around 4,800′. Reasonably “easy” or maybe “easy-tending-toward-moderate” as far as the Colorado 14ers are concerned. (Keep in mind–as an interesting comparison–a hike from Phantom Ranch, in the bottom of the Grand Canyon up to the South Rim via the Bright Angel Trail, is only a tad longer in distance, but involves 400 feet less in elevation gain.)
Timeline:
After a long afternoon preparatory siesta, I left Boulder about 10:30p.m. on Friday, September 16, and was at the trailhead a bit too early to start up (1.a.m.). I didn’t want to sit around too terribly long on the summit in the dark cold before first light, so I waited in the truck and another short siesta ensued.
At about 2a.m. I finally set out, exhaling clouds of mist into the cold moonbeam air. I made the ridge by 4:35a.m., and the summit of El Plata Peak by 6:05a.m., just in time for that wonderful pre-dawn light that seems even more magical when you are up at altitude and you can spectate as the planet’s rotation throws its purple-banded Earth shadow on the opposite horizon for but a few minutes.
After dancing the photo jig with tripod and lenses for an hour or so, I headed over to East Plata. It took 40 minutes to get there, but mainly because I was a little unsure of the route and ended up trying to downclimb onto the north side–which didn’t pan out due to the spookiness factor (Hard snow! Run away! Run away!) I found a much better route by dipping down along the south side of the ridge. The return to La Plata only took 20 minutes, with less dipping down to the south, once I was familiar. [For an excellent trip report with some detailed specifics and labeled photos of this traverse, see Mike M’s trip report at 14ers.com]
I packed up and left the summit around 8:30a.m. and, with many, many photo stops and numerous friendly hiker encounters–including Sam!–along the way, I finally made it back to the trailhead (and my foot-friendly sandals) at noon.
Total time: about 10 hours, but that includes a whole lot of time spent photographing the wide, weird, wonderful world and jumping up and down to keep warm. The climb to the summit took about 4 hours, the descent a relatively slow 3 1/2. If you are fit, you could do this way faster…but why? Enjoy yourself up there! I suppose 6-9 hours total (fast-to-average range) is a good fair weather WAG for those wanting a planning framework for climbing just La Plata. Add an hour to go over to the east summit.
Weather Conditions:
Clear and beautiful! Even the wind cooperated with only some minor breezes (5-10mph) up higher on the mountain. Temps at the trailhead were around 28-33 degrees and probably ten degrees colder on the summit at pre-dawn. I wore an extra thin wool layer top and bottom (long johns to you Norwegian bachelors) and appreciated it at 14,000′, until the sun warmed things up. There were a few cumulus clouds to the north to help out with sunrise photography, but nothing Thor-like or threatening. Once back at the trailhead, at noon, it looked like the wind had picked up significantly–no idea if summit winds were proportional (another reason to start these hikes early).
Trail Conditions:
The Colorado Fourteeners Initiative folks (thanks, volunteers!) did some really nice Inca work on the La Plata summer trail–pretty much all the way to the top. I think it is a really fun trail to hike. Just as a reminder, though: this is NOT the trail you want to take in winter as it switchbacks up a bowling alley avalanche chute to gain the northwest ridge. Use Ms. Google to cast about for the winter option. I say this because the La Plata NW Ridge trailhead is accessible all winter, so lots of folks target this peak for the snow season.
Up high on the mountain, along the last 800 vertical feet or so, there was still evidence of the late August snow showers, especially on the northern slopes or in the shade. On the trail, the snow was so thin and scattered it was easily avoided. No traction needed.
The biggest hint I’ll give you for the traverse to East Plata is that the solution will either lie directly on the ridge or on the loose slope to the south. No need to drop off the north side. In Mike M’s report (linked earlier), you will find plenty of beta, so I’ll let you have your own personal adventure and figure it all out for yourself. I’d call the traverse mostly Class 2, but Class 3 to 3+ in a couple of spots on loose, dirty,and exposed slopes–you wouldn’t want to start rolling down the hill in those sections. If you hit Class 4 or higher, go for it if you are so inclined, but there is probably an easier way you missed.
Finally, one hint for starting this hike: Immediately upon leaving the parking area at the trailhead on Colorado 82, you will cross a big vehicle bridge on the dirt road. After this, keep an eye out for the trail heading into the forest on the left side as you walk–it is easily missed, in the dark especially. I would say this critical junction is 5-8 minutes beyond the big bridge and right next to a large green driveway gate. If you are still walking the dirt road after 10-15 minutes, you probably missed it.
Photography Issues:
–I carried the usual set o’ bricks up the mountain: Nikon D800 body, tripod, and three lenses–14-24mm f/2.8, 24-70mm f/2.8, and 70-200mm f/4. That’s about 12 extra pounds in all.
–Over to East Plata, I started out hand carrying my big camera, but eventually set it down to be be picked up on the way back. I just used my iPhone6 for some documentation shots along the way as I needed all four paws to negotiate the terrain at times.
–I have yet to find a decent system for carrying my big camera at the ready as I walk/climb. The systems I have seen are often too complex, uncomfortable, heavy, or bulky, or they don’t keep the camera sufficiently out-of-the-damn-way when scrambling. Anyone out there have any good ideas?
Unusual Events/Comments:
–I was alone during the entire climb to the summit and all the way through sunrise, although I could occasionally see car headlights coming over Independence Pass as well as the flicker of hiker headlamps across the valley on what I think was Casco Peak (at 13,908′, a “Centennial”). As I gained the northwest ridge, I could see the first headlamps like fickle fireflies down in the forest on the La Plata Trail.
–On the traverse over to East Plata, at one point, I tried downclimbing onto the north slope to avoid some gendarmes. There was 2-4″ of hard snow between the rocks there and the angle a bit steep, so that idea was quickly snuffed out and back over to the south side I went–where I found a couple different ways of doing it. The traverse will go at Class 3 if you choose your route wisely but might be a bit scary for those not used to loose rock/dirt and some exposure.
–Met Sam on the way down, an enthusiastic young guy on his first season of climbing 14ers–seems like the Colorado big mountain bug has bitten down hard on him!
–People count: I lost count eventually, but something like 40+ human beans were on the slopes of La Plata on this particular Saturday, including a group of four over on Ellingwood Ridge.
–When I pulled in to the parking area at 1a.m., there were almost no spots left and a number of folks were camped out in the forest behind (or in their vehicles, presumably). When I returned at noon after the hike, the lot was absolutely packed with cars lining the road down to the bridge over the creek. So, get there early!
–Current Colorado 14er Senior Challenge summit count: 41 of the basic list of 58 (p. xxiii in Gerry Roach’s 14er “Bible”, Colorado Fourteeners, 3rd Ed.). No change here as I had already climbed La Plata last year. The longer list of named 14er summits is now up to 50 of 73 peaks (pp. 347-348, with South Wilson added, also in Roach’s “Bible”). Or maybe that should be 74 named 14er summits with the recent re-measuring and addition of Sunlight Spire!
Selected Images:
Onward toward Orion! The big boulder makes a nice wind break–and helps out the foreground in this photograph. La Plata’s summit is up the ridge to the right:
Orion Over the Northwest Ridge. La Plata Peak, Colorado, 2016
By the light of a pizza-pie moon…the summit of La Plata Peak is visible. From treeline on up, I hiked with my headlamp turned off, such was the illumination:
Orion Over La Plata. La Plata Peak, Colorado, 2016
Often, the pre-dawn light is even more magical than the harsher light after the sun breaks the horizon. I arrived on La Plata’s summit at 6:05a.m. with plenty of time to watch the transition to day (official sunrise was scheduled for 6:50a.m.):
First Light. La Plata Peak, Colorado, 2016
The far high point is Pikes Peak, a 14er with a train to the top, near Colorado Springs. A bit closer are the double humps of the two Buffalo Peaks (13ers):
Buffalo to Pikes. La Plata Peak, Colorado, 2016
With this one, it was the composition that attracted me rather than any notion to document distant mountains–thanks to the two clouds that sprouted in the sky, then dissipated moments later:
Two Clouds. La Plata Peak, Colorado, 2016
That’s the highest point in Colorado on the left. A bit of Ellingwood Ridge is visible in the foreground. Subtle and dark pre-dawn colors:
Pre-Dawn Portrait of Mt. Elbert. From La Plata Peak, Colorado, 2016
Switching to the 24-70mm lens, here is a wider view out to the northeast as the landscape becomes more visible. On the left, in the distance, are the various summits of Mt. Massive. Then you see the pyramidal summit of Mt. Elbert just left of center. The shiny lake is part of Twin Lakes over 5,000 feet below, and the entire Ellingwood Ridge is visible in the middle-ground. The snow on the north slopes of La Plata (on the right) is what remains of some snow showers that hit the Colorado high elevations in late August:
View Northeast, Pre-Dawn. From La Plata Peak, Colorado, 2016
After a slow, tranquil, and subtle pastel prelude, the star attraction finally breaks the eastern horizon. All the effort is worth it for such a sight. Also, for beta lovers, almost the entire traverse over to East Plata is visible in the foreground–that short rock ridge on the left is the east summit:
Sunrise. La Plata Peak, Colorado, 2016
The obligatory (or is it?) hero shot as the moon drops toward the west. Note the shadow cast by La Plata Peak onto the horizon just right of the moon. The purple band low across the entire horizon is Earth shadow:
Sunrise Moment. La Plata Peak, Colorado, 2016
A closer view of Sister Moon (at 99% of full) and La Plata’s shadow. Just left of the shadow is the 14er Castle Peak, in the Elk Range. Farther to the right, on the far horizon, you can see the Elk 14ers, Maroon Peaks and Pyramid Peak. On the very right edge of the picture, also on the far horizon, is the 13er, Hagerman Peak, and part of Snowmass Mountain, 14er:
Moonset and Shadow. From La Plata Peak, Colorado, 2016
A golden sunrise creates a wonderfully layered composition out to the southwest:
Shadow and Golden Light. From La Plata Peak, Colorado, 2016
A post-sunrise view of Mt. Massive (on the left) and Mt. Elbert (on the right) with the Gore range in the far distance (center). In the foreground, Ellingwood Ridge is starting to pick up the suns rays, and some of the autumn color on the slopes below are now discernible:
Massive to Elbert View. From La Plata Peak, Colorado, 2016
That’s Mt. Blaurock (a 13er, at 13,623′) in the foreground. From left to right behind are a number of Sawatch 14ers extending down to the south: the Belford-Oxford massif, Harvard, Colombia, Missouri…how many more can you identify?
Crystal Lake and Mt. Blaurock. From La Plata Peak, Colorado, 2016
Switching to the telephoto at 200mm and aiming it WNW, you get a nice panorama–the Maroon Peaks and Pyramid Peak (left), Hagerman and Snowmass Mountain (center), and the mighty scary Capitol Peak on the right. Is that Garfield or Grizzly Peak shining in the sunlight on the left?
The Elks Range. From La Plata Peak, Colorado, 2016
Looking back at La Plata’s main summit (and a lone, pensive, human bean atop it) after starting the traverse toward East Plata. This first part is straightforward Class 2:
East Plata Traverse, #2. La Plata Peak, Colorado, 2016
Then, turning around toward East Plata…The best possibilities to keep things at Class 3 are on the ridge when feasible, then on the right, or the south side, of the ridge, although the scree there is dirty, steep, loose and a bit exposed. Staying directly on the ridge line all the way would likely be solid Class 4 on exposed and crumbly rock in one or two spots:
East Plata Traverse, #3. La Plata Peak, Colorado, 2016
This is what the iPhone6 saw from East Plata’s summit looking back at the main peak. On the way back, I was able to find easier and more secure ways around the gendarmes and I was back on “Main Plata” within 20 minutes, half the time of my outbound scramble:
East Plata Traverse, #4. La Plata Peak, Colorado, 2016
Back on the main summit, one last portrait of East Plata:
East Plata and Beyond. From La Plata Peak, Colorado, 2016
On your small screen, they may not be very visible, but there is a party of four at the start of “the business” of Ellingwood Ridge. They sure have a long day ahead of them!
On Ellingwood Ridge. From La Plata Peak, Colorado, 2016
Here is a cropped section of the above image–maybe you can see the tiny stick figures now:
On Ellingwood Ridge, Close-Up. From La Plata Peak, Colorado, 2016
I met up with Sam on the summit and we sort of leap-frogged each other on the way down as many more came up the trail (a busy Saturday!). Sam eventually left me behind as I kept pulling off the footpath to snap pictures:
Sam, Starting the Descent. La Plata Peak, Colorado, 2016
Portrait of Sam:
Sam, On La Plata Peak Trail. La Plata Peak, Colorado, 2016
It’s a loooong way down! Use those trekking poles and save on orthopedic surgery expenses! That big boulder down there is where I stopped on the way up to photograph Orion over the northwest ridge:
The Summer Trail. La Plata Peak, Colorado, 2016
Off the ridge and on down the steep slope as the sun comes over the ridge in pleasantly warm pursuit:
Shadows. La Plata Peak, Colorado, 2016
The summer trail climbs up through some very avalanche-prone slopes. The arrow indicates the general area of the winter route. Generally, you make your way up through the trees to the “Bench”, then look for a scree slope almost around the corner that will take you up to the northwest ridge:
The Winter Route. La Plata Peak, Colorado, 2016
I swear those aspen look like they form an outline of North America–or is it just if you squint really hard? The variety of fall colors in transition, though, were spectacular:
Aspen Colony. From La Plata Peak, Colorado, 2016
Here, the summer trail takes you through a perfect bowling alley for Alvin the Avalanche Ogre:
The Switchbacks. La Plata Peak, Colorado, 2016
A nice study in contrasts:
Lone Fir. La Plata Peak Trail, Colorado, 2016
Yep, it was definitely below freezing here last night!
Icy Creek. La Plata Peak Trail, Colorado, 2016
Almost back to my vehicle, I stopped to photograph this critical spot. On your way up, this is what to look for when navigating off of the dirt road and on to the footpath. It is very easy to miss in the dark. Last spring, I walked right by it and finally turned around some 20 minutes later. For reference, this point is a mere 5-8 minutes walk from your parked automobile and Highway 82:
The Trail Starts Here. La Plata Peak Trail, Colorado, 2016
As you cross the vehicle bridge over Lake Creek, just a couple hundred yards from the trailhead parking lot by Highway 82, look up (at La Plata Peak, just left of center) and marvel at your accomplishment. You were up there just hours ago!
La Plata Peak View. La Plata Peak Trail, Colorado, 2016
The calendar says it is still summer for a few more days, but the mountains are saying quite clearly that fall has arrived:
Autumn Color. La Plata Peak Trail, Colorado, 2016
Finally, two bonus fine art images…both monochrome:
Textures, High Alpine Valley. La Plata Peak, Colorado, 2016
Boulders, High Alpine Valley. La Plata Peak, Colorado, 2016
You might also like
Leave a reply