Portrait of Mount Antero. From the Arkansas River Valley, Colorado, 2015
“Mountains are the means; the man[woman] is the end. The goal is not to reach the tops of mountains, but to improve the man[woman].”
– Walter Bonatti
On this climb, I came very close to bailing. It was 2:30a.m., dark and cloudy spooky, and yet another wave of thunder and lightning rolled in from the west and threatened to catch me (with my tripod, ice ax, and hiking pole lightning rods) in the open tundra just above treeline.
I counted after each flash…one, two, three, four…and waited for the answering boom. There is roughly 1,000 feet for each second, thus five seconds would be about a mile. I like storms to be at least 10 miles away, 20 miles even better (lightning can hop ridge lines and instantly zap you to a galaxy far, far away), but this one was closing in quickly…twenty-five seconds I counted…then fifteen seconds…then ten seconds…
I made a quick, half-running, dash back down to the safety of the taller trees below and huddled under the relative safety of the vast umbrella forest. Surprisingly–a nice surprise–the storm wave skimmed by just to the north (maybe over Princeton?) and petered out somewhere to the east over the valley. The stars began to come out again.
I started, very warily, back up the trail, the hairs on the back of my neck finely tuned to any possible distant flash or rumble.
Lightning is one of the big threats on Colorado’s high peaks and one of the several reasons I have for my very early starts (photography, avoiding crowds, and it’s just plain beautiful are the other reasons). I am usually back down at the trailhead before the first threatening cumulus even think about puffing out their darker chests.
On this trip, though, the weather pattern was frustratingly deviant. The electrical storms began the day before at about 8p.m., shortly after I arrived at the trailhead, and continued, wave after wave, into the wee hours. Zeus and Thor were obviously battling it out with all available weapons in the hell of the Hall of the Mountain King. I got up at 1a.m. and made my hiking preparations slowly, sure (hoping?) that there would be a celestial truce at any time. On the surrounding horizons, thunder rumbled…lightning flashed…
In the end, it worked out and I made the summit just after sunrise as the formerly menacing clouds flattened out and floated innocuously off to the sacred four corners of the Earth. It was nice to climb this mount while semi-winter conditions still prevailed up high and the 4WD and ATV gem-hunting crowd had yet to descend on the peak.
Trip Report: Mount Antero (14,269′)
Route:
The Class 2 West Slopes Route from the Baldwin Gulch 4WD Trailhead at 10,800′–making a hike of about ten miles round trip and 3,400′ vertical. If the 4WD road is not yet open, you’ll add a good five miles and another 1,000’+ vertical to your effort. In late summer, when the road is clear of snow and has been patched up a bit by off-road enthusiasts, the 4WD track can take you well above 13,000′ if you have the appropriate “rig” and you don’t mind the constant stomach-knotting threat of a multiple-thousand foot rollover.
Timeline:
I left Boulder the afternoon before (Tuesday, June 16) so as to growl up the 4WD road in daylight. These rough tracks always look ten times worse with the transient headlight shadows of night and I wanted to avoid that stress. I arrived at the 4WD trailhead beside Baldwin Creek at about 7p.m., after a 45-minute trip in 4Low up from the 2WD road in Chalk Creek valley.
I was awake at 1a.m., dawdled due to the nearby storms, and was eventually across the creek and on my way up the trail at 1:45a.m…again, dawdling, due to continued threat of thunderstorms on all sides. These storms just had to dissipate all their energy sometime!
The big scare came at around 2:30a.m. when I had made my way just above treeline. What turned out to be the last frontal assault (finally!) rolled its electrical charges a bit too close for comfort and I sprinted back to the safety of the trees. It was 3:15a.m. before the storm passed, the drizzle stopped, and the stars winked their happiness once more…and I could nervously start back uphill.
I was on the 13,000′ “shoulder” by first light and the summit by 6a.m., about 20 minutes after official sunrise.
I stayed on top o’ the world until 6:50a.m. and was back at the truck by 9:15a.m.–well, 9:45a.m., actually, as it took me another half hour to change into my stream wading shoes and set up my stream wading photo (below).
Total time on the trail: 8 hours. But, about 1 1/2 hours of that was photo-farting-around time, so you could figure 6 1/2 hours for an average round trip time in good summer conditions–say 3 1/2 up and 3 or less coming down.
Weather Conditions:
Thunderstorms! They had predicted a 50% chance during the usual times–late afternoon into evening. But, I was ambushed by the constant tidal wash of storms from 8p.m. to 3a.m.–not typical, but it does happen.
The temperatures were very mild–in the 60s when I arrived in the evening and in the low 50s when I started out in the early morning. Obviously the snow is melting fast these days!
On the top, after sunrise, I had some cloud decks off in the distance, temps probably around 30-ish, and a 15mph steady breeze…not too bad as far as high Colorado summits go.
The first cumulus clouds started forming at around 9a.m. when I was almost back to the truck. You can see in the image above what they eventually looked like at around 11a.m. as I saw the mountain in the rear-view mirror.
Trail Conditions:
First, the 4WD section from the valley road up to the 4WD trailhead: it is very steep, and very rocky and bullwinkle. I wouldn’t take a Subaru or wannabe 4WD up this–you need high clearance. My stock Tacoma made it, but it was a very slow and bouncy ride with my tires at highway pressure. Really, an ATV would be the ideal vehicle.
A show-stopping icy spot had been reported at the half-mile point a week or so ago but only a slushy remnant remained. The road, though, was a veritable creek in places as the water poured off the mountain from every seam. At one point, I had to stop and roll three boulders off the road due to fresh erosion and rockfall from the bank above. (Note to self: carry a shovel and crowbar in the truck.)
At the 4WD trailhead I quickly chose not to cross Baldwin Creek in the truck as the water was fairly deep and flowing strongly. It looked doable (it was, see pics below), but I was alone and in no mood to test out Murphy and her in-laws.
Once I started hiking, my plan for crossing the creek was this…use my running shoes to get across, then leave them behind for the re-crossing once I got back. I’d carry my boots and a towel across for the footwear change. This seemed to work well–except I should have kept my running shoes on for another few hundred yards up the hill. At that point another, smaller, stream forced a six-foot jump that I didn’t quite make. Oh, well.
The trail was pretty dern obvious and no sweat to follow by headlamp (and intermittent distant lightning flashes!). Treeline is where I started to hit large snowbanks that would definitely stop even the most testosterone-charged four-wheeler (unless accompanied by a bulldozer). On foot, I just picked my way through rock and snow and followed the switchbacks ever upward.
Snow on the switchbacks was starting to melt back enough to allow for a footpath beside the drifts in some sections. In some steeper gullies, I needed to follow the boot tracks through the snow to get across. In these areas, a fall would probably send you sliding far away down the slush, so I trod with care. A couple of weeks ago they might have even been avy-prone, but not now. I did carry an ice ax just for the slip-slide contingency, but never unholstered it for these traverses–it didn’t really seem necessary as the tracks were pretty secure.
From the “shoulder” at 13,000′, I left the road and followed a line directly up to Point 13,820 and it was almost entirely snow-free. Here and there were bits of trail to follow, then some boulder-hopping at the crest.
The final ridge up to Antero’s elegant and perchy summit still held a lot of snow and, again, there were a few snow traverses that some might feel squeamish about due to the runout below, but there were solid boot steps to use across each.
So, I carried microspikes and an ax and never used either. Boots with good rock and snow traction (and waterproof for the wet walking low on the mountain) were the bees cheese.
Photography Issues:
–The lightning storms would have been a great opportunity to practice some lightning bolt photography, but my lizard brain was elsewhere–on safety and whether a climb would even be possible at all.
–Always recheck your lens when photographing water with mist or spray present. I took a half dozen shots beside the creek before I realized my lens was covered with droplets.
–Carry a waterproof cover for your pack. When it started raining, I realized I had forgotten mine so I had to move my two lenses from vulnerable outside pockets into the interior of the pack for greater protection.
Unusual Events/Comments:
–On the descent, on one of the last few switchbacks before reaching treeline, I ran into a young man in biking shorts pushing, carrying, and riding his machine (propulsion method dictated by the varying condition of the trail). He had ridden/pushed all the way up from the 2WD dirt road in the main valley. Ah, the strength of youth! I have no idea how far up he went with his bike, but I did last see him riding it around a curve up high. What a way-gnarly descent he had, I’m sure–although it would be a much better ride both up and down with the road completely clear of snow as it will be later in the summer.
–I saw one other lone hiker coming up as I descended through the trees. He also had started walking from the trailhead in the main valley by Chalk Creek.
–At my truck, at around 10:00a.m., a Jeep appeared. The two men (one with an Australian accent) were scouting out the area in advance of some filming for the Weather Channel show called The Prospectors. Mount Antero, being the mecca it is for folks seeking unusual and valuable gems and minerals, is one of the show’s selected filming locations and they have apparently been coming back here every season for several years. The two guys debated the possibility of crossing the creek in their Jeep and eventually did so with no issues (see image below).
–On my return, I was lucky to not meet anyone head on as I drove slowly down the 4WD road to the valley. There are actually a number of places to pull far enough over to permit the passing of another vehicle, but sometimes they were a bit far between. I mentally noted these “pullouts” as I went down, just in case I needed to back up.
–Until I saw the cyclist, the lone hiker, and the Jeep, I had been alone on the mountain since putting the truck in 4Low the previous evening. If you come here in August, though, bring party hats and kazoos for the crowd.
—Mt. Princeton Hot Springs Resort looks like a nice place to bring the significant other!
–The Chalk Cliffs are pretty unusual and spectacular. There could be some nice images to be had there in the right light.
–If you have some extra time, consider a quick side trip a few more miles farther up the Chalk Creek Road (Chaffee County 162) to the semi-ghost town of St. Elmo.
—Colorado 14er Senior Challenge summit count: 32 of the basic list of 58 (p. xxiii in Gerry Roach’s 14er “Bible”, Colorado Fourteeners, 3rd Ed.); 38 of the long list of 73 (pp. 347-348, with South Wilson added, also in Roach’s “Bible”.
Selected Images:
My parking/camping spot on the evening before the climb. Note the clouds that would soon overdevelop into thunderstorms lasting most of the night…
Baldwin Gulch 4WD Trailhead. Mt. Antero, Colorado, 2015
I just missed the last light on the mountains above, which would have made for a much better reflection and photograph. Still, it was a gorgeous, classic, Colorado high mountain valley…
Baldwin Gulch. Mt. Antero, Colorado, 2015
With all the gnashing of teeth, gnawing of fingernails, and pulling of hair about thunderstorms, this was the first image I made on the climb, just as the herald trumpets called out the birth of a new, calmer, day. By then, I was able to relax as all the bad, angry, clouds had drifted off to other points…
Summit Ridge. Mt. Antero, Colorado, 2015
In the pre-dawn blue of the high mountains, this is a view looking southwest at the summit of Point 13,820. If you are good with a 4WD or an ATV, and the road is clear and has been patched up a bit (late summer), you can use fossil fuels to haul your butt up to this point–or darn close to it–rather than walking. Note the 14ers Shavano and Tabeguache on the left in the distance. I’m not sure what the white cross is all about…
Point 13,820. Mt. Antero, Colorado, 2015
A closer look at Antero’s summit ridge…
On the Ridge. Mt. Antero, Colorado, 2015
There were some strange granite sculptures to be seen…
Granite, Antero Ridge. Mt. Antero, Colorado, 2015
THIS is what it’s all about, Alfie! Or at least partly…
Top o’ the World. Mt. Antero, Colorado, 2015
The Crestone group and the Blanca Group of 14ers are visible in the distance, catching the first light of sunrise…
View Southeast. Mt. Antero, Colorado, 2015
The last remnants of the earlier thunderstorms drift out to the east to sit heavily on Pikes Peak…
Pikes Peak View. Mt. Antero, Colorado, 2015
Princeton is the next Sawatch 14er to the north. That may be the Lincoln-Democrat Group off in the distance, partially obscured…
Mt Princeton and Beyond. Mt. Antero, Colorado, 2015
Looking back from whence I came, down the summit ridge to Point 13,820 and beyond…
View South. Mt. Antero, Colorado, 2015
Looking generally north along the spine of the Sawatch Range. How many 14ers can you name? As a reference, Mt. Massive is the massive hump just right of center…
Heart of the Sawatch. Mt. Antero, Colorado, 2015
A view of Mt. Harvard (center) and Mt. Columbia (right, in sunlight), still holding plenty of snow…
Classic Colorado. From Mt. Antero, Colorado, 2015
A closer view of Mt. Shavano and Tabeguache Peak…
Shav and Tab. From Mt. Antero, Colorado, 2015
To the Arkansas River Valley below (a white water paradise these high-runoff days!), sighting down Antero’s east ridge…
Arkansas Valley View, #2. From Mt. Antero, Colorado, 2015
A wider view of the Sawatch Range to the north, this time sighting down Antero’s north ridge…
Heart of the Sawatch, #2. From Mt. Antero, Colorado, 2015
Oh, ’tis a fun run at 14,000′ to get into position after setting off the camera’s timer. One last Zen moment before returning to uncivilization…
Zen Summit. Mt. Antero, Colorado, 2015
A closer view of the route home…
Antero South Ridge. Mt. Antero, Colorado, 2015
On the descent, a sun kiss goodbye to Antero’s spicy summit ridge…
Sunburst Over Antero. Mt. Antero, Colorado, 2015
From somewhere below Point 13,820…
The Switchbacks. Mt. Antero, Colorado, 2015
Given I felt the need to carry an ice ax on this route in these conditions, that is one highly motivated young cyclist up on yonder curve…
Lone Cyclist. Mt. Antero, Colorado, 2015
“Fish Hook Road” (End of the Line) for four-wheelers trying for a personal altitude record–at least until the snows melt back. This was right about where treeline and tundra kissed…
Trail Snowdrifts. Mt. Antero, Colorado, 2015
As you come up the trail, the first time you really emerge from the trees you’ll be about here. This would be a great spot to camp with plenty of room to turn your vehicle around…
Treeline Campsite. Mt. Antero, Colorado, 2015
Sometimes the creek stays in its banks…
Trailside Creek. Mt. Antero, Colorado, 2015
And sometimes it prefers to roll down the 4WD track…
Creek on the Trail. Mt. Antero, Colorado, 2015
My method of fording Baldwin Creek at the 4WD trailhead. It was soooo cold it made my legs and feet want to fall off within seconds. Oh, to feel soooo alive! Of course, to get this shot, I had to cross the creek three times to set up the tripod, get into position, etc., etc…
Fording Baldwin Gulch. Mt. Antero, Colorado, 2015
There is another option if you have the skills and the clearance…
Fording the Creek, #2. Mt. Antero, Colorado, 2015
A last look at the adventure o’ the day. Thanks, Antero!…
Portrait of Mount Antero. Colorado, 2015
15 Comments
My apologies. I just visited your blog FAQ on cameras.
Great report/photos. What kind of camera do you use?
Hey, Nick. Thanks for reading. I use a Nikon D800 with three different lenses: 14-24 f/2.8, 24-70 f/2.8, and the 70-200 f/4. It’s a lot of extra weight (12 pounds, when you include the tripod), but worth it in terms of image quality.
Great writeup. Great pictures too. We were there a few days after you camping at the point where the trailhead makes a hard left and turns into the switchbacks heading up the mountain. We put our “rigs” through their paces and made it to within 100 yards of that location (had to carry our camping gear up to that point). So we acclimated a few days before climbing. What a super camping spot and was great to meet a few hikers over those days as they headed up and down. And quite the adventure coming back down that road on Saturday with so much washed out. 6 hours from camp to main road.
Glad to hear you had a great trip, Jeff. Thanks for stopping by! DanJ
You counsel against taking a Subaru up that road, but in ’03 I got our Forester to the same place you stopped with little trouble. Perhaps the road has deteriorated?
Hey Patrick.
Thanks for visiting.
I can’t say if the road has deteriorated as this was the one and only time I have been up there. My impression, though, is that it was pretty rough for most highway vehicles, even AWD. Having good clearance was quite useful. However, if you are a pretty good driver, know where to place your tires, and go very slowly, you could probably do it. (I have seen some Subarus in some pretty remarkable places!) There were maybe three very short sections that will require careful tire placements to avoid high-centering on top of protruding rocks. There are some narrow places to pull off here and there, so if you found a section you didn’t want to drive, then you could probably back up to a point that you could park out of the way enough to allow others to pass.
Fording the stream at the 4WD trailhead right now would probably be risky–you can see for yourself when you get there.
Hope that helps. Have a great trip!
Beautiful photos.
Patrick – I took my 2010 forester up there last year without too much difficulty. I did this in the summer though.
Thanks for visiting, Shane! And you might PM Patrick directly…
Was just looking for info about Antero conditions on 14ers.com and found your site. Thanks for posting and great looking photos!
Thanks, Kevin. Hope they help and have a great trip!
Awesome photos!! It makes me want to get earlier starts to see the beautiful light of sunrise!
Debra, I love to sleep and it’s hard to get up. But I guess I love alpine sunrises more! Thanks for visiting.
Amazing pictures! I especially liked the slow exposure of the creek. And thanks for the snow report. It looks like it will be a couple weeks until the Sawatch peaks are clear of snow.
Thanks for visiting, Mike. Yes, I think your estimate is probably pretty close.